How to Identify Vintage Clothing
Vintage fashion is a celebration of individuality, offering a chance to wear styles that have stood the test of time while owning a unique piece of the past. While some may see older, used clothes as outdated, vintage pieces carry history, craftsmanship, and character that set them apart.
Whether you're a sustainable shopper, or someone who loves the charm of past decades, knowing how to identify vintage clothing is key to finding authentic pieces. But with so many reproductions and retro-inspired designs on the market, spotting the real deal takes a trained eye. In this guide, we'll break down everything you need to know about identifying vintage clothing, from labels and fabrics to design details and silhouettes.
What is Considered Vintage Clothing?
Before getting into the specifics, let’s clarify what vintage clothing is. A piece is typically considered vintage if it’s at least 20 years old, meaning anything made before the early 2000s qualifies. That said, certain decades—such as the 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, 1980s, and even 1990s—are especially sought after for their unique trends and craftsmanship.
Vintage clothing differs from antique clothing, which refers to pieces over 100 years old, and retro clothing, which are modern items designed to mimic older styles. Whether it’s a classic dress from the 1950s or a pair of 80s clothing brands jeans, knowing how to spot vintage clothing means recognizing key characteristics that set genuine pieces apart. The same principles apply when learning how to find vintage jewelry, as authentic pieces often feature distinct markings, materials, and craftsmanship that reveal their history.
How to Spot Vintage Clothing
Now that you understand what makes clothing vintage, let’s explore the different ways to identify it.
Examine the Labels & Tags
One of the most reliable methods for identifying vintage clothing tags is checking the label. Older garments often feature brand tags with outdated fonts, unusual sizing, or faded stitching. Here’s what to look for:
Union labels: If the clothing item has a union tag, it likely predates the 1990s. Look for labels from the International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU) or Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA).
Made in the USA: Many popular vintage brands were manufactured in the United States before production shifted overseas in the late 1980s.
Vintage clothing label styles: Labels from the 1960s and 1970s often have hand-stitched edges, while later decades feature printed or heat-sealed labels.
Woolmark logo: If you find a Woolmark label, you can date the garment to specific decades based on the design.
Inspect the Fabric & Construction
Fabric composition and garment construction provide valuable clues about age. Some materials were more common in specific eras, so knowing your textiles helps date vintage clothing.
Natural fibers: Vintage pieces from the 1940s to 1960s were often made from wool, cotton, linen, and silk.
Polyester and synthetics: 1960s and 1970s fashion embraced polyester, nylon, and acrylic, making these fabrics good indicators of clothing from these decades.
Metal zippers: Garments from before the 1960s typically have metal zippers, while plastic zippers became more common in the 1970s and 1980s.
Pinked seams: Older items often feature zigzag-cut seam edges, a technique used before modern serging machines became standard.
Lining & structure: A well-constructed lining and heavier stitching suggest pre-1980s craftsmanship.
Evaluate the Style & Design
Fashion trends change dramatically with each decade, and understanding vintage fashion history helps pinpoint when a piece was made.
1950s: This decade was defined by full skirts, cinched waists, and feminine silhouettes. Look for A-line dresses, mid-length skirts, and fitted bodices.
1960s: The Mod era brought sleek, structured lines, shift dresses, and bold prints.
1970s: Bohemian styles, bell bottoms, and maxi dresses were popular. Look for earthy tones and flowing fabrics.
1980s: Power dressing took center stage with padded shoulders, structured blazers, and bright colors.
1990s: A mix of grunge, minimalism, and casual sportswear defined the era—think flannel shirts, slip dresses, oversized denim, and iconic 90s clothing brands like Tommy Hilfiger that set the trends of the decade.
Look for Signs of Age & Wear
While well-preserved vintage items exist, most show some signs of wear. Knowing what to look for can help you distinguish vintage garments from newer replicas.
Faded fabric & fraying seams: Natural aging can soften textiles, making them feel different from new clothes.
Discoloration & staining: Some older materials develop yellowing, especially around the collar and underarms.
Rust stains from hangers or buttons: Metal components can oxidize over time, leaving small marks.
Softened prints: Unlike modern screen printing, older fashion prints often fade naturally.
Check the Silhouette & Fit
Vintage sizing differs significantly from modern sizes. A dress labeled as a size 12 in the 1960s may fit more like a modern 6. Always check measurements instead of relying on the label size.
High-waisted skirts and pants: Many pre-1990s pants and skirts feature higher rises compared to contemporary low-rise styles.
Darting and seams: Structured seams and darts, especially in women’s dresses, suggest an older design.
Smaller armholes & fitted sleeves: Many vintage blouses and jackets have narrower sleeves than today’s looser cuts.
Discover Vintage Gems at ShopGoodwill.com
If you’re ready to put your new skills to use, ShopGoodwill.com is a treasure trove of vintage finds. Whether you're on the hunt for 80s clothing brands, a classic 1950s dress, or a timeless leather skirt, finding vintage clothing takes practice—but the reward is a wardrobe filled with history, style, and character. Plus, every purchase supports ShopGoodwill.com’s mission of creating job opportunities and supporting communities, making your shopping not just exciting but also meaningful. So, next time you’re thrifting, keep these tips in mind and find your next favorite vintage garment!
Sources:
Fashion Institute of Technology. Fashion History Timeline. The Museum at FIT, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/
New-York Historical Society. Look for the Union Label. https://www.nyhistory.org/blogs/look-for-the-union-label
Textile Heritage Museum. Textiles: Ancient Times to Modern Day. https://textileheritagemuseum.org/textiles-ancient-times-to-modern-day/
The Woolmark Company. History of Woolmark. https://www.woolmark.com/about/history/